Pilgrim Portrait - back to the real(?) world

Pilgrim Portrait - Madrid

Gratitude

I got an early start this morning from Labacolla, which is something like 10 Km from Santiago.  I was actually rather foolishly concerned about being able to acquire the necessary two stamps before entering Santiago, but of course this was not a problem.

It was a drizzly rainy morning - just enough for me to put on the loathesome poncho for a while, but pretty soon I removed and just dealt with the light rain.  The pack however remained covered.

It wasn't long before I started reaching the outer suburbs of Santiago, so it was mostly urban hiking - which I don't particularly enjoy.

I was wondering what I would feel when I reached the Cathedral - euphoric?  disappointed?  would it be anti-climactic?

I wanted to be sure to make the pilgrim's mass at noon so I checked in at my hotel so I could ditch the backpack.  By the time I got to the Cathedral the seats were already taken.  I took a "seat" at the base of a stone column on the gospel side of the altar in the transept.  This turned out to be a great vantage point for the giant botafumeiro thurible.

The mass itself was in Spanish, but I was glad that they used the familiar Latin Jubilate Deo setting for the Sanctus and Agnus Dei.  And I was really surprised when the Pater Noster was recited (not sung!) In Latin.

But then during the communion rite we were treated to "I am the bread of life" en español.

It is my custom after receiving the Eucharist to immediately begin a series of thankful prayers to Jesus.  It seems only appropriate since the word "Eucharist" is derived from Greek "thanksgiving".

As I was going through this litany, it occurred to me that I now knew what I felt upon reaching Santiago:  Gratitude

Gratitude to the Lord, who answered my daily prayers to deliver me safely each day to where I needed to be.

Gratitude to my "crewe" of Saints who kept me company and encouraged me along the way.

Gratitude to my friends and family back home whom I knew were praying for me during my journey.

After mass, as I went through the pilgrim ritual of "hugging the apostle" on the high altar and praying at the saint's sarcophagus, thanksgiving was in the forefront of my thoughts.

Then I went into the adoration chapel, in which a friendly Spanish woman gave me a devotion page in Spanish to pray before the exposed host in the monstrance.  I was moved by her welcoming kindness so I went through the program and found it strangely efficacious.  She followed me out afterwards and we had a broken chat in Spanish.

Later in the afternoon I went to confession with a soft-spoken young Spanish priest who first apologized for his English and then delivered some of the most comforting and soothing words I've ever heard in the confessional.

After that I returned for another embrace with the apostle and returned to the tomb one last time before leaving the Cathedral.

Dear Friends thank you once again for your prayers and support.

And to my loving and supporting wife Kathleen who endured hardship on the home front so I could make this journey and was always positive about my pilgrimage.

I don't know if I ever will have this opportunity again; I hope so.  But whatever may come I know I will always be grateful for the grace given me on the way.

St. James - Jesse Tree

Botafumeiro

Compostela

End of the Road

Veronica Station

Pilgrim Portrait - Santiago de Compostela

Incluso más flores!

Yum!

Credo in ... communionem sanctorum

The Communion of Saints is very powerfully felt on the Camino.  There is a palpable sense that I am not doing this alone, even though by all visible means that is exactly what I am doing.

I've overheard other Catholics express this same notion along the way.

I've come to know some new "friends" - notably St. Isidore, whom I had heard of but grew to know after having the privilege of venerating his earthly remains in León.

St. Nicolas was there in two very memorable church visits when I was at my lowest point and was thinking of coming home before going to Santiago.  Plus he famously punched out Arius at the Council of Nicea so what's not to love about him?  :-)

There have been many other connections, too numerous to mention, but here are some key members of my crewe:

St. James
St. Isidore
St. Nicolas
St. Mary (always)
St. Gemma Galgani
St. Maria Goretti
St. Servatus ( how I've needed HIS intervention! )
St. Anthony

And my usual group of namesake and family confirmation saints:
St. Louis
St. Mark
St. Thomas Aquinas
St. Gregory
St. Augustine
St. Philomena

... et omnibus sanctis !!!

Holy Spirit Church, Melide

Side Altar of the Suffering Christ

Holy Spirit Church, Melide.

Great spot to make an Act of Contrition, perfect or otherwise.

Church of St. John, Melide

Tiny church in Melide with magnificent high altar (look past the wired (ugh) Novus Ordo altar in front).

Vacas Peregrinas

Camino's 2nd Largest Scallop Shell

Church of St. James - Palas de Rei

la vista de la ventana de mi habitación.

I will hear mass there tonight.

Blister containment strategy

Just you'll know it's not all fun & games here on the Camino, here's how I'm coping with the toe blisters.  I would say at best I'm keeping them contained so I can crawl my way to Santiago in the next several days.

In the morning I create a "hood" for each problematic toe (exhibit A).  The hood is made of small strips of gauze which I apply to problem areas and then wrap with medical tape.

When I arrive at my destination I remove the hood and inspect for further damage or new blisters (Exhibit B).

As necessary I apply the needle & thread wicking technique;  I haven't done this in a while since this is only applicable to fresh new ones and most of the ones I have now are grizzled veterans.  I also apply topical antibiotic to problem areas.

After this I let them breathe until bed time - at which time I apply antibiotic second skin to any live or open wounds.  This is so the second skin will be plenty dry for application of the next morning's hoods.

Deo Gratias, I haven't had recurrence of the tendonitis, either due to returning to hiking boots during the day, OR the lighter pace I've been taking, OR the intercession of St. James (and others too numerous to mention, but Santiago gets a shout-out because it's his Camino!)

Pilgrim Portrait - Palas de Rei

Más bloomage!

Them!

Peregrino Musical

Selections included:

Immaculate Mary (!)
Oh! Susanna
Cielito Lindo "ay yay yay yay ..."
Torreador en Garde (Torreador song from Opera Carmen)

Dinner Companions

Have I mentioned how much I prefer staying at the country inns?  :-)

Country Pensión

Big Blooms

Church / Fortress of St. John

XII C. - Associated since then with the Knights of St. John who are dear to my S^3 schola mates.

Santiago de Portomarín

Misty Galicia morning

Arrived Portomarín

Dear Friends,

I'm back on the walking Camino, doing segments of 10-15 Km/day instead of the 20-25 I was attempting before.  This makes for a much more pleasant Camino and allows me to keep the unholy trinity of ailments (tendonitis, plantar fascitis, blisters) more or less in check.

The orthotics I brought to prevent fascitis were compressing the toe space and exacerbating the blister problem.  I switched to hiking sandals which I'm convinced brought on the tendonitis due to the lack of ankle support.  Now I'm back to boots but without orthotics.  This seems to be the best overall approach.

The toes are generally behaving themselves except the middle toe, to which I would like to offer a different middle digit.  I have to treat him with second skin, gauze and tape every day just to keep going.

Otherwise I am enjoying walking the Camino once again.  My snoring has been a problem so in consideration for fellow pilgrims I've eschewed the albergues (dormitories) for private rooms.  It is much more restful plus I don't experience "albergue anxiety" in the morning, an unpleasant feeling that I have to frantically pack and clear out ASAP like the other pilgrims are doing.

In the new daily rhythm I've done my walking by 1 at the latest and usually have checked in, lunched, showered and washed clothes by 2:30 or so, which gives the body some rest time and maybe even a siesta.

Monday night I stayed in a country pensión le llama Casa Morade.  This was SO much more pleasant than the frantic albergue cast-of-thousands experience.  It's very peaceful & quiet in rural Galicia.

Tonight I'm in the "big" city of Portomarín in a small pensión right off the main square.  I went into the church of San Juan there and I must have just missed a Marian procession because a couple of parishioners were moving a statue of Our Lady from a procession platform back to her place above a side altar.

Galicia is very damp and misty in the mornings and sunny in the afternoons (so far).  The countryside has the familiar scent of cow dung wafting in the air throughout.

Please continue to pray for my safe travels.

Crucifixion detail

Leon Cathedral

glass

Leon Cathedral

stained glass

Leon cathedral

Facade

Leon Cathedral

Ecce Nova Facio Omnia

After resting several days, tomorrow I begin again to walk the Camino.

I've lightened the load significantly, and will be taking shorter chunks each day, starting with 10 Km tomorrow. 

I've jumped ahead to Sarria (with a couple of stops in Burgos and León).  I am hopeful that with the reduced distance and shorter days (with more rest) that mi cuerpo can endure to Santiago. 

Thank you for your prayers for safe travels!

Burgos

Jolly Old St. Nicolas

Burgos

Tapestry - Life of Judith Series

Burgos

Pilgrim Portrait

Baggage

I just sent home about 4 Kg of stuff:  extra clothes, socks, miscellaneous back-up gear, and a sleeping bag.

Before that I had unceremoniously discarded a number of luxury items along the way:  paperback books, playing cards, solar-chargeable battery backup, ground pad.

All of this done to reduce to essentials in order to maximize my chances of continuing on the Camino as signs of body failure began to materialize.

I'm pretty much down to two changes of clothes, bad weather gear, medical supplies, toiletries, and a pullover for chilly Galicia.

It's easy to wax metaphorical on the camino but I think this is a good one to develop.

"Enter ye in at the narrow gate: for wide is the gate, and broad is the way that leadeth to destruction, and many there are who go in thereat."

I once heard a sermon in which the priest explained that to get through the narrow gate of a city it was necessary to unload the baggage from the beast of burden in order to fit through.

I couldn't help but recall these words as I found it necessary to leave things behind in order to keep on the way. 

I kept thinking of the "baggage" in my life that is holding back progress on the Way.

Oh how many idols we have to distract us in this time of plenty and convenience!  Would that my worldly attachments were as easy to discard as my deck of playing cards!

Plan B

Dear Friends,

I regret to report that I've been sidelined the past couple days due to injury and body fatigue.  Nothing really serious (mostly tendonitis and cramping) but bad enough to make it impossible to carry a pack 25 Km each day.

I also realize that I've been pushing the body harder than it can take to try to stay on plan.

There are other complications as well, so I'm going to take a rest period.  I hope to recover, then finish the Camino at a slower pace.

Unfortunately that means I will have to "motorize" the middle chunk in order to stay within my time constraint.  This is a hard pill to swallow but good salve against Pride.

Zariquiegui - Church of St. Andrew

All of these tiny villages have amazing medieval stone churches.

A Pilgrim's Life

Wake up around 6:30 or so - Albergues want you out of there by 7:30

Pack & find a place for continental breakfast.  Perhaps buy a snack for the road.

Start walking by 8:30.

Walk walk walk.

Stop for snack / lunch

Walk walk walk with stops for rest and refill water at public fountains.

If you're a fast pilgrim arrive at albergue early-to-mid afternoon.

If you are slow like me arrive late afternoon / early evening.

Check in / stamp pilgrim's credencial.

Take shower.

Wash the days' clothes by hand.

Fast pilgrim: hang to dry.
Slow pilgrim:  use machine dryer for 2-3 euros or wear dry (yuck)

Eat dinner - Pilgrim's menu ~ 10 €.

Journal / visit / read / text home / pray / attend mass

Lights out at 10:00